Sod Care Guide

Everything you need to install and establish a new lawn. Follow this and you’ll be mowing in two weeks.

Before delivery

1. Prep the ground

The sod will only be as good as what’s under it. Don’t skip this step.

Clear the area

  • Remove old grass, weeds, rocks, and debris.
  • If you’re killing an existing lawn, spray a glyphosate-based herbicide 10–14 days before install. Wait for the grass to brown, then scrape it off.

Till and amend

  • Till the soil 4 to 6 inches deep.
  • If the existing soil is clay-heavy, rocky, or full of construction fill, top-dress with 2 to 3 inches of triple-mix or fresh topsoil. A BigYellowBag (one cubic yard of screened topsoil) covers about 100 sq ft at 3 inches deep.
  • Rake level. Low spots will always be low spots after sod goes down.

Final grade

  • The finished soil grade should sit about 1 inch below any paths, driveways, or edging. When sod goes on top, the lawn will be flush.
  • Water the prepped soil lightly the day before delivery. Damp soil bonds better with new sod.
Pro tip: Rent a lawn roller to finish the grade. It’ll show you every high and low spot so you can fix them before the sod arrives.
Install day

2. Installing the sod

Start within 6 hours of delivery — especially in summer. Stacked rolls heat up fast.

  1. Pick a straight edge to start from

    A driveway, sidewalk, or string line works. First row of sod butts tight to that edge.

  2. Roll out the first piece

    Lay it flat. Butt the end tightly against the edge — no gaps, no overlaps.

  3. Work in rows

    Stagger seams like brickwork — never let four corners meet. Each roll should start where the previous row’s roll ended in the middle.

  4. Water as you go

    Within 15 minutes of laying the first roll. On a big job, have one person laying and one person watering.

  5. Cut around obstacles

    A sharp utility knife cuts sod cleanly. Cut on the soil side, not the grass side.

  6. Roll the lawn when you’re done

    A water-filled lawn roller presses the sod into contact with the soil, eliminating air pockets. Rent one if you don’t own one.

Don’t do this: Don’t overlap seams. Don’t stretch sod to fill gaps (it’ll shrink and leave a crack). Don’t lay sod on dry, dusty soil — wet the soil first.
Weeks 1–2

3. Watering (the critical two weeks)

More sod dies from under-watering in the first two weeks than from anything else combined.

The goal: sod consistently moist — not soggy — until roots establish. Check by lifting a corner. If the soil underneath feels dry, water more.

Typical first-two-weeks schedule

Mornings
15 – 20 min
All zones, every day
Afternoons
10 – 15 min
Hot / windy days only
Evenings
Skip
Wet grass overnight invites disease
If it rains heavily you can skip a cycle. Don’t add watering on top of heavy rain — soggy soil will rot the new roots.

Watering in hot weather (28°C+)

Increase to 2 to 3 cycles per day. Watch for any sod that’s turning yellow or grey — that’s heat stress and it needs water immediately.

Watering while you’re away

If you can’t be there to water, set up a sprinkler on a timer. You can’t lay sod the day before a 5-day vacation and expect it to survive.

Day 10–14

4. The first mow

  • Wait 10 to 14 days before the first mow. Root establishment takes precedence over length.
  • Sharp blades only. Dull blades tear grass rather than cutting it, which stresses new sod.
  • Mow the top third. If the grass is 3 inches tall, mow to 2 inches. Never cut more than a third of the blade in one pass.
  • Skip the bag. Grass clippings left on new sod feed the lawn. Collect only if they’re clumping.
Before you mow, tug on a few spots. If the sod lifts easily, it’s not rooted yet — wait another few days.
Week 3 onwards

5. Establishing the lawn

Back off the watering

Drop to 1 inch of water per week — ideally from a single deep soak rather than frequent light waterings. Deep watering encourages deep root growth, which means a drought-tolerant lawn long-term.

Fertilize

Apply a balanced fertilizer like 16-16-16 three to four times per year:

  • Early May — spring green-up
  • Late June — pre-summer root strengthening
  • Early September — fall recovery
  • Early November — winter dormancy prep

Apply just before rain when possible. Water in well if it doesn’t rain within 24 hours. 16-16-16 is not slow-release, so it needs water.

Mow regularly

Keep it on the longer side — 2.5 to 3 inches — to shade out weeds and keep the roots cool.

Troubleshooting

6. If something goes wrong

My sod is turning yellow

Almost always under-watering. Water heavily for 2–3 days and see if it greens up. If it doesn’t, call your local farm — we’d rather send someone than have you lose your lawn.

There are gaps between rolls

Normal in the first week as the sod settles. Fill with topsoil and the grass will knit together within 2–3 weeks.

Mushrooms are popping up

This is soil fungus, usually from old tree roots underneath. Not harmful to the sod — just rake them off and they’ll stop within a few weeks.

I see brown patches after a few weeks

Could be heat stress, a watering blind spot, or pet urine. Photograph it and call your local farm — we can usually diagnose from a picture.

Still not sure?

Photograph the issue and send us a message. A sod problem is almost always something we’ve seen before and can tell you how to fix.

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